Underwaist



2 Sheets-Sheet 1.

(Model.)

B. W. PHILBROOK;

UNDERWAIST.

No. 385,570. Patented July 3,1888

FIG I N PETERS. Phulu-Lithuxuphz-I. Waihinglon. D. C.

(ModeL) 2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

E. W. PHILBROOK.

UNDERWAIST.

No. 385,670. Patented July 3, 1888.

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tries.

ATENT EMMELTNE V. PHILBROOK, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

UNDERWAlST.

ESPECIPICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 385,570, dated July 3, 1888.

Application filed November 9, 1881.

To aZZ whom it may concern;

Be it known that I, EMMELINE W. PHIL- BROOK, of Boston, in the county of Suffolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Underwaists, which improvement is fully set forth in the following specification.

This invention has reference to the construction of bodiees, underwaists, or like garments, which may, if desired, be stiffened by steel or whalebone ribs to serve as substitutes for corsets; and the object of the invention is to improve the construction of such garments with a view to securing more accurate fit and greater ease and comfort for the wearer.

The invention will be fully understood from the following description, takenin connection with the accompanying drawings, in which Figure I is an outside view showing one half of a garment constructed in accordance with the invention; Fig. I, a cross-section thereof on line as; Fig. II, an inside view ofthe same, and Fig. III a partial view illustrating a modification.

Each half of the garment is composed offive outside pieces or sections to wit, the front piece, A, the second front or bust piece, B, the side or arm piece, 0, and the two back pieces, I) E. The inside or lining is likewise composed of five corresponding pieces or sections, lettered A, B, O, D, and E.)

The back pieces, I) 1*] and l) E, as well as the side pieces, C O, are cut to fit the body closely and accurately.

The seams uniting adjacentsections also secure the inside and outside pieces together except in the case of the front sections, A B and A B, the inside and outside front sections being finished separately, as best shown in Fig. II, dividing from the dotted line 2 about four or live inches from the top of the waist,

and forming from that part up a double garment. The outside bust-section, B, is carried up over the shoulder,forming a shoulder-strap for supporting the waist and other garments that may be attached thereto. The advantage of this arrangement consists in having the supporting shoulder-strap practically independent of the inner sections, (which may be utilized to receive whalebones or steel ribs,

(Model) and thus serve as a corset,) so that the tension of the strap will not interfere with the fit of the garment or mar the beauty of the outline of the figure. This arrangement can of course be reversed, the shoulder'strap being attached to the inside section.

To secure necessary fullness for the hustand to prevent undue compression of the same by the tension of the shoulderstrapmhe following features of construction have also been devised: The shape of the pieces B and B differs above the dotted line 2, where they separate. The outer section, B, curves outward in both directions toward the top,and its back edge is cut longer than the adjacent edge of piece 0, the extra length being taken up in the gather 3 just below the arm-size. This fullness gives the freedom that is needed, and effectually prevents the pressure and tightness usually experienced with garments having a strap over the shoulder for the supportof clothing.

The corresponding inner section, B, is not curved outward toward the top to the same extent as the section B, but is narrower at the top than the latter, and additional width to compensate for the part thus cut away from section B is given to the adjacent sections A and O.

The fullness under the arm-size may be ob tained, as shown in Fig. III, by inserting a curved gore, a, between the pieces B and O to take the place of the gather 3.

It will be understood that the terms innor and outer sections or pieces as used in the specification and claims are simply to distinguish the said parts from each other, and are not intended as limitations to a particular mode of constructing the garment, for the latter can obviously be reversed, in which case the outside would become the inside and the inside or corset portion provided with ribs of whalebone or steel would become the outside of the garment.

I claim- 1. A waist or bodice composed of anumber of outside pieces or sections and corresponding inside pieces or sections, the second front or bust piece being continued over the shoulder to form a shoulderstrap, and being separate or detached from the corresponding inner piece at the upper part of the garment, sub stantially as described.

2. A waist or bodice composed of a number of outer and inner sections, the outer bustsection being separate from theinner bust section at the upper portion of the garment and continued over the shoulder, and being curved outward in both directions from the line of separation and provided with additional fullness under the arnrsize, the inner bustseetion being cut away on both sides above the line of separation and additional width given to the adjacent inner sections, substantially as described.

3. In a waist or bodice composed of a nu mber of inner and outer sections, the combiner tion, with the outer bust-section independent of the corresponding inner sections at the upper portion and having a shoulder-strap, of a curved gore inserted under the arm-size between the loustsection and the adjacent side or arm section, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have signed this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

EWIMELINE W'. PHILBROOK.

Witnesses:

P. E. TESOHEMAOHER, EDWIN F. EDGETT. 

